Embracing the Unknown In Delhi

Day 9 — Unfettering Horizons with Dave Prager.

Hey there! So, on August 9, 2014, someone gifted me this book, “Delirious Delhi,” and I stumbled upon it while doing some Döstädning (Swedish death cleaning). I decided to give it another go and got hit with a wave of memories about embracing both the good and bad in life.

Back when Dave Prager wrote this book, Delhi was just known as the asthma capital, on its way to becoming the crazy chaos it is today. Dave saw it as a testament to human adaptability and survival, talking about monsoons that sound straight out of a poetic masterpiece.

Let’s rewind to my first reading and the notes I scribbled. Dave takes us through the streetside book market of Delhi, which he charmingly dubs as Delhi’s own Brigadoon. To me, it felt like a mix of Nampalli Sunday book market vibes.

Ten years ago, I thought Dave was trying to find New York surrogates in Delhi. Now, it seems more like he was just getting used to the unknown. Dave breaks down his Delhi experience into three phases, starting with feeling like a pioneer.

One relatable moment was the phase of wearing sweatshirts over saris and tennis shoes on the feet. Talk about a fashion statement!

Backtracking a bit, Dave and Jenny, tired of New York, decided to become pioneers in Delhi, documenting their overwhelming experiences. The lure of gastronomic adventures drew them in, exploring food joints recommended by Lonely Planet.

Moving into their own flat, they encountered a helper, Ganga, who went from unsettling to an integral part of their lives. They joined the EOID group (Eat Out in Delhi), discovering the culture of chaikhanas, where people had chai anytime, anywhere.

Coffee culture seemed more elite, except in South Indian hotels where it came in a steel cup and dish. Dave and Jenny shared tales of their experiences at places like Karim’s and Roshan-di-kulfi, equating mithai shops to quick-bite diners.

Parties and get-togethers revealed a great gender divide, with Jenny sitting with men who she royally ignored. Then, we venture into the Bahadur Zafar Shah Market, which Dave likens to Brigadoon, but to me, it resembled the Nampalli under-the-flyover market.

Palika, once a new thing, transformed into a hub of counterfeit products. Dave and Jenny learned the art of haggling and discovered that asking for a discount was the norm. Learning that Nehru Market was the go to place for any electronic issue.

During their stay, they realized everything they needed was within walking distance. The initially suspicious shop assistants became familiar strangers, bringing comfort and smiles.

Dave’s office had its journey from Okhla to Gurgaon to Udyog Bhavan during the early days of Delhi Metro. Jenny found her calling with Sam Singh and his NGO Paradada Pardadi.

The concept of jugaad intrigued them, representing achieving objectives with available resources. While his colleague Murali Just called it ‘Duct and tape Arrangement” .Arranged marriages, resembling those in the US, became more understandable with parental blessings.

The transformation of Delhi, as per Dave, happened between 2003-2010. He observes the unique traffic hierarchy, where street commerce thrives during jams. The Hierarchy was very clear… the adult vendors first, the child beggars next, the adult beggars next and finally Dave does not share how but the link to the red-light commerce.

The book ends with the Pragers moving to Singapore but contemplating buying real estate in Delhi. Dave categorizes Delhi’s expat community into three types: hippies who came for the India experience. mid-level researchers and NGO workers, and the elite married to a Delhiite. Dave has diagnosed a syndrome he calls the “Gora Evasion syndrome” where one Gora steadfastedly ignores the other.

He also reflects on their awareness of the city’s quiet mechanics, appreciating people like Ganga, Shilpa, and Lakkan, who taught them the real struggles of survival. Dave was amazed at the hard work people put in. Ganga and pride in keeping the Prager’s house neat and tidy. Shilpa and commitment to garbage collection. Lakkan who began work at 6am, and spent the night curled on his cart. Ananya the neighbour who took care of the street dogs. Dave also comments on the innate Indian mind set of repair, reuse, or redistribute.

In a nutshell, Dave and Jenny’s journey through Delhi was a rollercoaster of overwhelming experiences, self-discovery, and an appreciation for the city’s hidden gems. Cheers to “Delirious Delhi” for giving us a peek into their adventure!

Blog by curated by Dave and Jenny Our Delhi Struggle

Publisher:  Harpar Collins click here for buying options.

ISBN    973935029